• Route:
o Day 1: Hong Kong > Dunhuang
o Day 2: Dunhuang Museum > Dunhuang Press > Mingsha Mountain & Crescent Moon Spring
o Day 3: Full-day Western Route Tour (Dunhuang Ancient City, Yangguan Pass, Yumen Pass, Yardang Geopark)
o Day 4: Morning: Mogao Grottoes; Evening: Shazhou Night Market
o Day 5: Half-day Eastern Route Tour (Self-drive)
o Day 6: Return Trip
Day 1: Arrival in Dunhuang
As March is the off-season, there are no direct flights from Hong Kong to Dunhuang. After comparing flight durations from Shenzhen and even Guangzhou, I chose the shortest route via Beijing and Lanzhou. The flight departed at 1 pm, with an expected arrival around midnight. My main concern before departure was transportation from the airport to the city center late at night in an unfamiliar place. Upon arriving at Dunhuang Mogao Airport around 1 am, I was immediately relieved to find many taxis waiting outside. It took about 30 minutes to reach the Atour Hotel, located near the Shazhou Night Market in the city center. By then, it was nearly 1:30 am. The night market area was still lit, but all shops were closed. The temperature was around 10 C, as forecasted, feeling quite pleasant. We quickly settled in for some rest.
Day 2: Dunhuang Museum, Dunhuang Press, Mingsha Mountain & Crescent Moon Spring
Waking up to beautiful sunshine felt warm and inviting. Our hotel, the Atour, was right in the city center with a KFC directly opposite. For convenience, we had breakfast there.
Having checked the forecast, we knew this would likely be the best weather day of the entire trip. We had pre-booked tickets for the highly anticipated Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring scenic area for the afternoon, as many guides suggested visiting around 3-4 pm. With the morning free and the weather perfect, we adjusted our plans. We first took a stroll through the nearby streets before heading to the Dunhuang Museum.
Dunhuang city is compact, with wide, clean streets. Decorative elements featuring Mogao Grottoes cultural motifs are common. The city center itself is small and can be explored within a few blocks.
Dunhuang Museum
A short 10-minute drive from the hotel. Admission is free, but requires a real-name reservation via a mini-program on your phone at the entrance. (Note: The registration process requires quite a bit of information, including a phone number of the Chinese mainland and personal details, which took longer than the actual travel time to the museum.) The museum houses many artifacts. Two exhibits particularly caught our interest:
1. The Northern Liang Stone Pagoda: One of the oldest existing Buddhist pagodas, showcasing early Buddhist grotto sculpture techniques.
2. The 1:1 Replica of Cave 45: The highlight of the exhibition hall. This representative cave from the High Tang period is a special cave (teku) at the Mogao Grottoes, usually requiring an additional fee of 200 yuan to enter. Seeing this detailed replica for free was a great experience. I believe this museum serves as an excellent introduction to Dunhuang, whether as a first stop or a prelude to visiting the actual Mogao Grottoes. We spent about an hour browsing casually and, finding we still had time, decided to visit the nearby Dunhuang Yinju.
Dunhuang Press
Just a few minutes' drive from the museum. On this mid-March morning, we were the only visitors. Pushing open the door, we were greeted by a coffee bar. Dunhuang Press is essentially a cultural and creative center. It houses thousands of unique stamps for visitors to collect as souvenirs. If you plan to visit, remember to bring a blank notebook or paper. Of course, you can also purchase one there. The space is vast and very photogenic, from the ground floor down to the basement level. When you need a break, you can relax with a coffee.
By noon, the temperature had risen to nearly 20 C, feeling quite hot and dry. Without a specific lunch spot in mind, we took a taxi back to the Shazhou Night Market area. Finding most food stalls still closed, we opted for a local noodle shop on a main street: Shunhe Huang Noodle Restaurant. We tried Donkey Meat Yellow Noodles for the first time, a local specialty. It was surprisingly good, with a texture similar to braised beef and no gamey taste. After lunch, we checked into our second hotel, the Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel. We had chosen a budget hotel near the city center for our first night due to our late arrival. For the remaining days, we switched to this more traditional and renowned hotel, located conveniently near Mingsha Mountain and the Mogao Grottoes, offering desert views from some rooms – an excellent value during the off-season.
Mingsha Mountain & Crescent Moon Spring: I Captured the Photo of a Lifetime
Neither of us had ever visited a desert region before, so Mingsha Mountain was our most anticipated attraction. With today's perfect weather and clear blue skies, our excitement was palpable!
After preparing our gear at the hotel – all camera equipment and essential sand gaiters – we set off. Another short 10-15 minute drive, and the desert suddenly lay before us – a truly breathtaking sight. Exchanging our pre-booked tickets at the visitor center was quick with no queues. Equipped with our sand gaiters, we stepped onto the sand. The vast, boundless landscape offered many optional activities like camel rides and desert buggies, but we declined them all. Our goal was the top of the sand dunes, so we headed straight for the "Sky Ladder" entrance. The dunes looked deceptively close. Walking in the sand with gaiters was surprisingly strenuous, and it took 15-20 minutes just to reach the base of the ladder.
The scenic area provides three long wooden ladders to assist with climbing the main dune. At the start of the "Sky Ladder," we felt confident, thinking we could reach the top quickly. But as we gained altitude, the ladder would disappear and reappear in the wind-blown sand. Every step was a battle against the fierce wind and the unsettling feeling of feet sinking into loose sand. A moment's inattention could lead to a misstep. Halfway up, I had to stop and rest. After three or four more breaks, it took nearly 40 minutes to finally reach the top. The sight was astonishing. The dunes, sculpted by the sun, looked like frozen golden waves, forming perfect, razor-sharp ridges against the sky. We spent a good two to three hours roaming the summit, taking countless photos. By 6 pm, the sky was still bright. We decided to rest and wait for sunset, hoping to perhaps catch a glimpse of the desert stars. Experiencing such majestic and beautiful dunes firsthand for the first time – it felt like a dream come true. The sky was incredibly blue that day, but unfortunately, clouds blocked the sunset. Around 8:30 pm, dusk settled, and the scenic area lights came on. With no evening performances in the off-season, the dunes were soon swallowed by darkness. Without the lights, it would have been impossible to get one's bearings. (Tip: If you plan to stargaze on the dunes, bring a small flashlight!) The moon hanging over the dunes was exceptionally beautiful, but March isn't ideal for stargazing. Many stars were visible, but photographing them was challenging. After a few unsuccessful attempts, we headed back down. Back at the hotel, we found sand in our masks, glasses frames, pockets – everywhere, including our faces. A true taste of the sand and dust of the Northwest!
Personal Tips for Visiting Mingsha Mountain
• Sand Gaitors: Absolutely essential. Sand gets everywhere, rubs your feet raw while walking, and is a nightmare to clean out. Climbing the dunes without them would be miserable.
• Sun Mask / Face Mask: The wind blows sand everywhere. Forgetting a mask means your mouth and nose will be full of sand.
• Wet Wipes: Sand sticks to your face, phone, camera... Wet wipes are the only way to clean things effectively. Otherwise, you'll feel gritty all day.
• Phone Protection: Many suggest a protective case for your phone. Based on my experience, it's not strictly necessary. However, if you're using a DSLR or mirrorless camera, DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, CHANGE LENSES in the open.
Day 3: Full-Day Western Route Tour (Dunhuang Ancient City, Yangguan Pass, Yumen Pass, Yardang National Geopark)
We had pre-arranged a private car and driver. Departing from the hotel at 8 am, our driver-guide took us across the Gobi Desert. The scenery along the way was endless sand and weathered hills – eroded passes, long stretches of power lines – the quintessential Northwest landscape of yellow sand and wind.
First Stop: Dunhuang Ancient City
Arriving before 9 am. A less engaging attraction compared to Dunhuang's historical sites.
Second & Third Stops: Yangguan Pass and Yumen Pass
How can one visit Dunhuang without seeing its two famous passes? Established during Emperor Wu's reign in the Han Dynasty, Yangguan and Yumen were the empire's westernmost frontiers. After two millennia, most traces have been eroded by wind and sand, leaving behind only solitary ruins. Getting off at Yangguan pass, we were hit by a ferocious wind, equivalent to a Hong Kong Typhoon Signal No 8. The temperature plummeted to around 0 C. Despite wearing every layer we had, we were freezing. We wrapped our heads in scarves, leaving only our eyes exposed. Having come this far, we persisted, taking the shuttle bus to the beacon tower ruins. The wind was even stronger there. Unable to bear the extreme cold for long, we did a quick circuit, took some photos for memory, and hurried back to the car to head to Yumen Pass.
At Yumen Pass, you must take a shuttle bus to reach the Han Great Wall section and the distant Dafangpan City ruins (about 15 km away). Our driver sped across the vast yellow expanse, giving us a real taste of desert speed and thrill.
By mid-afternoon, the wind and sand grew worse. Our driver mentioned a sandstorm was starting. The chance of seeing sunset at Yardang Geopark seemed slim, and the planned stargazing for the evening was definitely cancelled.
Travel time on the Western Route dominates the day. The drive between sites takes over an hour each. We arrived at Yardang around 5 pm, just in time for the last sightseeing bus, but the weather had turned foul. We could only get a limited, close-range view of the Yardang formations, which looked even bleaker under the sand-laden sky. The drive back from the geopark to Dunhuang city took over two hours. We finally returned to the hotel around 10:30 pm and had cup noodles for dinner.
Day 4: Mogao Grottoes & Shazhou Night Market
Woke up to a yellow sky. The forecast was accurate – a full-blown sandstorm. We had 9 am tickets for the Mogao Grottoes. After breakfast and masking up, we set off. One advantage of the sandstorm? No queues. On the bus into the scenic area, the wind intensified, and temperatures plummeted again. We were part of the first group and spent over an hour visiting ten ordinary caves. Our guide was incredibly dedicated, continuing her detailed explanations despite being choked by the dust and coughing. Despite the biting cold and swirling sand, it didn't dampen our spirits at all; the scenes inside the caves were simply too awe-inspiring.
It's worth noting that visiting the Mogao Grottoes during the off-season offers an incredible experience. After the guided tour of the ten caves, you're free to stay in the area. Photography is strictly prohibited inside the caves, so we headed to the exhibition center, which houses many detailed 1:1 replica caves that are permissible to photograph.
By afternoon, the sandstorm intensified, and combined with the exhaustion from consecutive days of travel, we decided to rest at the hotel and decide on evening plans based on the weather later.
Around 8 pm, the sandstorm subsided slightly. We ventured out to the Shazhou Night Market for dinner. Still adorned with Chinese New Year decorations, the market was clean and beautifully lit with lanterns. Many stalls featured lamb dishes, with strings of skinned lambs hanging inside and out. Since we don't eat lamb, we opted for the popular Scallion Pancake with Beef and other snacks recommended online. It was still very cold, but a unique feature of the night market was the ability to warm up by the charcoal braziers placed around the seating areas – a wonderfully atmospheric touch! The rest of the market was filled with vibrant cultural and creative product stalls.
Day 5: Half-Day Eastern Route Tour (Self-drive)
Woke up to decent skies, but the temperature stubbornly hovered around -7 C. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off around noon, driving ourselves to see the giant art sculptures on the Gobi Desert east of Dunhuang: "Son of the Earth". These are man-made installations, but they looked stunning in photos online, so we were determined to see them despite the cold. It took nearly two hours on the expressway from Dunhuang to reach the "Son of the Earth" sculpture. Unfortunately, the weather was still uncooperative and bitterly cold. Without gloves or sufficient cold-weather gear, we couldn't stay outside for long. After a quick photo session, we rushed back to the car. During the off-season, the rest areas and restrooms at this site were closed. I imagine the experience would be equally challenging in the scorching summer heat or, like today, in the freezing cold with wind and sand. The sculptures are primarily photo opportunities with no other interactive or in-depth exploration options. They are better suited as a stop along a driving route rather than a dedicated destination. The cold was simply too intense for us, so we abandoned the plan to continue to Yulin Grottoes and headed straight back to Dunhuang.
Day 6: Return Journey (Dunhuang > Shanghai > Hong Kong)
Post-Trip Reflections and Recommendations
Traveling to Dunhuang in the Off-Season
Despite average temperatures dropping as low as -5 C during our trip, the biggest advantage was the minimal crowds – a perfect escape from the tourist crush.
• At the Mogao Grottoes, we essentially had a "private" viewing experience. Our guide could elaborate on each story without being rushed.
• At Mingsha Mountain, camel rides were available instantly, and taking photos didn't require jostling for angles or waiting for people to move out of the frame.
• If you're lucky with sunny weather, the scenery is stunning, and you have a great chance of capturing amazing, crowd-free photos.
• Hotel and attraction prices are also very attractive during this period.
In summary, although we only had one truly clear blue-sky day out of the four, the privilege of experiencing the desert's solitude was well worth the trip. Of course, visiting Dunhuang in the off-season involves an element of luck. Facing sandstorms every day would certainly diminish the value proposition. So, traveling to Dunhuang in the off-season is truly a love-hate experience.
Personal Recommended Itineraries
• 4-Day Highlights Tour:
o D1: Arrive Dunhuang -> Shazhou Night Market
o D2: Mogao Grottoes -> Mingsha Mountain & Crescent Moon Spring (Be prepared for a physically demanding day!)
o D3: Yangguan / Yumen Pass -> Yardang Geopark
o D4: Return Trip
• Relaxed 5-Day Tour:
o D1: Arrive Dunhuang -> Shazhou Night Market
o D2: Mogao Grottoes + Dunhuang Museum
o D3: Yangguan -> Yumen Pass -> Yardang Geopark
o D4: Mingsha Mountain Desert Experience
o D5: Return Trip
